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STAGE 1 First, paint the Elf's skin with Dwarf Flesh. Try to avoid getting any paint on the helmet, but if you do don't worry as you can always repaint the overlap with Chaos Black at a later stage. STAGE 2 The next parts of the model to be painted are the robes and the inside of the cloak. These are painted with Regal Blue. Once this has dried, clean your brush and dip it into the Black Ink pot. It may seem strange to use black rather than blue as the wash colour, but Regal Blue is a dark tone and even a dark blue wash would not really show. You do not want an excessive amount of ink on your brush. If a drop appears at the tip, then you have applied too much ink and you should wipe off the excess. Now paint over the cloth sections that you want to give an ink wash to. The ink will run into any recesses and the creases creating a shaded effect, making the cloth appear more realistic. STAGE 3 Drybrush the chainmail on the arms of the model with Chainmail. STAGE 4 The rest of the model's armour, the helmet and the sword hilt are painted with Mithril Silver. These sections will be painted Shining Gold in the next stage but some metallic colours appear dull when painted straight onto a black undercoat. By painting a basecoat of Mithril Silver first, you will enhance the metallic effect of the Shining Gold. Avoid painting the recesses of the armour; leave the black undercoat showing to separate the metal banding. When you come to paint the helmet, leave a thin outline of black undercoat showing where the helmet meets the flesh. STAGE 5 Once the Mithril Silver has dried, paint over all the basecoated sections with Shining Gold. At this stage you should be careful not to overlap the Shining Gold onto any sections that you have already painted. Once the Shining Gold has dried you can now paint over any sections of the model where you have slipped, using Chaos Black. STAGE 6 Paint the remaining cloth sections, the sash and outer side of the cloak with Codex Grey. Again at this stage you could apply a Black Ink wash on the cloth. STAGE 7 Taking care not to overlap paint onto the hilt, paint the sword handle Dark Flesh. It doesn't matter too much if you paint over the gloves as these will be covered over in the next stage. STAGE 8 Paint the gloves with Scorched Brown, which is a slightly darker shade than Dark Flesh. STAGE 9 Finally, paint the sword with Mithril Silver. You are now ready to base your model.

BASING It is all too easy to ignore basing your figures, but a good base will really help make your finished model stand out. Having spent all the time and effort on painting the model, it is really worth spending just a few more minutes finishing the base. Firstly cover over any gaps where the model slots into the base with some masking tape. Another easy alternative is to fill the gaps in with Blu-Tak. Paint the whole base with Bestial Brown, being careful to avoid painting the feet of the model. Once this has dried, water down a little bit of PVA glue. Two parts glue to one part water is about the right consistency. Paint this onto the top of the base, wiping off any glue that comes into contact with the model using a wet brush. Dip the base into some sand, shaking off any excess as you remove the model, then leave to dry. Next, paint the sand with Bestial Brown. Once this has dried you can drybrush the sand with Bleached Bone. You should use an old brush or one specifically designed for drybrushing, as this technique will quickly damage the bristles of a brush. Put a small quantity of Bleached Bone onto the tip of the brush. Now wipe most of the paint off onto a piece of paper towel or old rag. Flick the brush lightly up and down over the sand. The paint will catch on the raised surface of the base whilst the recesses will remain brown.

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