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STAGE 1 After undercoating the model with Chaos Black spray, and covering over any sections where the paint had failed to catch with watered down Chaos Black, the face was painted with Dwarf Flesh. It is a good idea to try to avoid getting this onto the hair, but if you do, don't worry as you can always paint the overlap Chaos Black at a later stage. STAGE 2 The next part of the model to be painted was the lower robe. This was painted with Scorched Brown. Once this has dried, clean your brush and dip it into some Brown Ink. You do not want an excessive amount; if a drop appears at the tip you have applied too much and should wipe off the excess. Once painted on, the ink will run into the creases of the robes creating a shading effect. STAGE 3 The overshirt was painted with a mix of Goblin Green and a small amount of Chaos Black. To mix, apply a small amount of paint with the end of your brush to your palette. Then, with the tip of your brush, add a small amount of Chaos Black and thoroughly mix the two together. STAGE 4 The undershirt was painted with Codex Grey. STAGE 5 The chest armour, arrow shafts, quiver and scabbard were painted with Bestial Brown. STAGE 6 The flights of the arrow were painted with Skull White. Try to avoid painting the wooden shafts that protrude from the top. STAGE 7 The sash and the boots were painted with a mix of Codex Grey and Chaos Black, this time using equal quantities of each colour. At this stage it is a good idea to go over with Chaos Black any areas where paint has overlapped. STAGE 8 The bracers and gloves were painted with Scorched Brown. STAGE 9 The bow and the hilt of the sword were painted with Dark Flesh. STAGE 10 The bracer armour and ornaments were painted with Boltgun Metal, taking care not to overlap the paint onto sections that had already been painted. STAGE 11 The hair was painted with Vomit Brown. STAGE 12 The quiver ornamentation was painted with Shining Gold. This is a tricky process and you should use the flat of the brush to apply the paint rather than the tip. If you take your time and make sure that you don't have too much paint on the brush, the end result will look great. If you do slip with the brush, you may want to paint over the mistake with Bestial Brown.

BASING It is all too easy to ignore basing your figures, but a good base will really help make your finished model stand out. Having spent all the time and effort on painting the model, it is really worth spending just a few more minutes finishing the base. Firstly cover over any gaps where the model slots into the base with some masking tape. Another easy alternative is to fill the gaps in with Blu-Tak. Paint the whole base with Bestial Brown, being careful to avoid painting the feet of the model. Once this has dried, water down a little bit of PVA glue. Two parts glue to one part water is about the right consistency. Paint this onto the top of the base, wiping off any glue that comes into contact with the model using a wet brush. Dip the base into some sand, shaking off any excess as you remove the model, then leave to dry. Next, paint the sand with Bestial Brown. Once this has dried you can drybrush the sand with Bleached Bone. You should use an old brush or one specifically designed for drybrushing, as this technique will quickly damage the bristles of a brush. Put a small quantity of Bleached Bone onto the tip of the brush. Now wipe most of the paint off onto a piece of paper towel or old rag. Flick the brush lightly up and down over the sand. The paint will catch on the raised surface of the base whilst the recesses will remain brown.

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