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STAGE 1: PAINTING FLESH After undercoating, there is no set method to painting a figure but many people like to start by painting the flesh, as it gives the figure a degree of character. Put just a small quantity of Dwarf Flesh from your palette onto the tip of your brush. As you paint the face, try to avoid painting the mouth section, but if you do overlap onto any area you are not meant to be painting do not worry too much. You will be able to go over any such errors at a later stage. STAGE 2 The trim of the tabard and the tree pattern at the centre of the tabard are painted with Codex Grey. STAGE 3: PAINTING CHAINMAIL To paint the chainmail sections of the model, you should use an old brush or one specifically designed for drybrushing, as the following technique will quickly damage the bristles of a brush. Put a small quantity of Mithril Silver onto the tip of the brush. Now wipe most of the paint off onto a piece of paper towel or old rag. Flick the brush lightly up and down over the sections of chainmail. The paint will catch on the raised surface of the model whilst the recesses will remain black. This technique is known as drybrushing. As you begin to paint more models you will find drybrushing a fast and effective method for painting the textured sections of a model, such as hair, wood or fur. STAGE 4 The helmet, armbands, shin guards, and sword should be painted next. These are also painted with Mithril Silver. When painting the helmet leave a small outline of Chaos Black showing where the flesh meets the helmet and where the sides of the helmet meet the headpiece. At this stage you should also paint the smaller detailed metal sections such as buckles and cloak brooches. Painting little pieces of detail can be a bit tricky. A steady hand is the key to this stage and make sure you only apply a small amount of paint to the tip of your brush. Too much paint on your brush will cause an excessive amount to flow onto the model, obscuring any detail. STAGE 5: TOUCH-UP Once the Mithril Silver has dried, very carefully go over the areas where paint has overlapped onto places you didn't want it. Paint over these areas with Chaos Black. Try to be very precise and neat at this stage and take your time. STAGE 6: GOLD TRIM The front band of the helmet, the sword hilt and the scabbard should be painted with Shining Gold. It may seem strange to paint these with Mithril Silver first, but Shining Gold appears a little dull when painted directly onto the black undercoat. Now you are onto the final stages it is well worth paying that little extra bit of time and attention to ensure that you don't make any mistakes. STAGE 7 Using Bleached Bone, paint the cloth areas on the trim of the figure's robe and under its arm. STAGE 8 The only sections remaining to paint on the figure are the hair and gloves, both of which are painted with Scorched Brown. Once this has dried you are almost ready for the final stage of basing the model. STAGE 9 Some people find it easier to paint the shields whilst they are still attached to the frame, although you should remember to paint the plastic section where it joins the sprue after you clip it off. Once the undercoat has dried you can paint the studs with Shining Gold. The rim and the tree are painted with Mithril Silver. After these colours are dry, any mistakes can be painted over with Chaos Black. You are now ready to base your model.

BASING It is all too easy to ignore basing your figures, but a good base will really help make your finished model stand out. Having spent all the time and effort on painting the model, it is really worth spending just a few more minutes finishing the base. Firstly cover over any gaps where the model slots into the base with some masking tape. Another easy alternative is to fill the gaps in with Blu-tack. Paint the whole base with Bestial Brown, being careful to avoid painting the feet of the model. Once this has dried, water down a little bit of PVA glue. Two parts glue to one part water is about the right consistency. Paint this onto the top of the base, wiping off any glue that comes into contact with the model using a wet brush. Dip the base into some sand, shaking off any excess as you remove the model, then leave to dry. Next, paint the sand with Bestial Brown. Once this has dried you can drybrush the sand with Bleached Bone. You should use an old brush or one specifically designed for drybrushing, as this technique will quickly damage the bristles of a brush. Put a small quantity of Bleached Bone onto the tip of the brush. Now wipe most of the paint off onto a piece of paper towel or old rag. Flick the brush lightly up and down over the sand. The paint will catch on the raised surface of the base whilst the recesses will remain brown.

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