TERRAIN FOR THE OGRE KINGDOMS
A TOTEM TO THE GREAT MAW
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Step
1 |
Cut out a hardboard
base and sand down the edges to a suitable
angle. |
Step
2 |
Build up the base
with modelling putty. Press the large stone
into the putty
first. Push any displaced putty back against
the rock with a wet finger or sculpting tool. |
Step
3 |
Press
a few smaller rocks around the larger rock
along
with a few smaller items and bitz. I chose
an Ogre gut-plate as well as a few captured
shields
(trim and clean these items before you add
them to the putty). Push any displaced putty
back
against these items as you did in Step 2.
Give the putty time to dry fully before continuing
to the next step. Depending on the putty's
thickness, drying could take about half a
day or longer.
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Step
4 |
Apply a few drops
of superglue to the bottom of a mid-sized
rock
and attach it to the top of the large rock
(think of how you build a snowman and you'll
get the
idea). Repeat this process and add a smaller
rock on top. It can take the glue a while
to
bond with the stone, so be patient.
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Step
5 |
While waiting
for the superglue to dry, clean and trim the
two-part
Ogre Maw standard top and the animal skull
top (both from the Ogre Bull plastic sprue).
Cut
a thin piece of steel rod to a length of 4.5".
Use a pin vise to drill a hole through the
centre
of the Ogre Maw (lengthwise) and another hole
at the top of the groove in the rear of the
animal skull (this hole should not pass the
whole way through the skull). Glue the animal
skull
to the top of the metal rod first with superglue.
Now, apply glue to the inside and rear-facing
groove in the back of the Ogre Maw. Pass the
metal rod down through the Ogre Maw until
it
rests just below the animal skull. The metal
rod beneath the Ogre Maw should measure about
3". Superglue a vulture (GW part code
9947020711117) to the top of the animal skull
to finish the
banner pole. |
Step
6 |
Use
a drill bit that matches the diameter of the
steel rod and drill a hole into the putty base.
We suggest a slight angle to the base to give
it a more haphazard feel. |
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Step
7 |
Basecoat
the assembled standard with Chaos Black
Spray
undercoat and glue the standard (when fully
dry) in the drilled hole with superglue. |
Step
8 |
Apply a layer
of PVA woodworking glue to the base (but
not the rocks). Sprinkle coarse sand over
the glue before it dries. Allow the glue
to
dry and shake off any loose sand into a container
for future use. |
Step
9 |
Basecoat
the entire piece of scenery with Skull White
Spray undercoat. This basecoat may require
a few passes for full coverage. Use a spare
piece of paper to act as a mask for the
black
standard when spraying on the white basecoat.
Just fold a piece of paper in half and,
with
the base of the standard in the fold, wrap
the paper around the standard and spray.
When
spraying the boulders from another angle,
simply re-mask the standard. |
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Step
10 |
I
used a selection of inks in a variety of earth
tones to stain
the boulders, large rocks, and base. Once the
primer is dry, heavily dilute the colours
with water. Apply them to the rocks in a "leopard
spot" pattern. Since
stone is very rarely one solid colour, daub
on
a secondary colour with this "leopard spot" technique.
Prepare two separate cups with black
(of a ratio of about 1:32 pigment to water)
and dark brown (1:16 pigment to water). You
may have to play around with this mixture depending
on which
inks you use. Daub
the secondary colour on in rough patches. Don't
cover the entire white surface. If the colour
is not rich enough, apply another coat once
the first is dry or cut down on the amount
of
water being used. Don't be afraid to allow
some of this colour to make its way onto the
scree
(sand and pebble base).
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Step
11 |
Once you are satisfied
with the outcome of the "leopard spotting"
and the pigment has dried, it's time to apply
the dominant stone colour. Prepare a cup of
greyish ink (1:16 pigment to water). Use this
dominant stone colour to wash all areas of
the
"boulders" as well as the base. If
the colour is not rich enough for your first
wash, apply another coat once the first is
fully dry or cut down on the amount of water
being
used. Set the piece aside to dry completely
before proceeding to Step 12.
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Step
12 |
Detail
your Ogre Totem with Ogre graffiti. Use a
soft pencil and draw a piece of Ogre iconography
onto the side of the bottom boulder. Paint
the icon with Red Gore. Highlight the
edges
of the icon with Blood Red. You can paint the
war trophies and standard pole however you
see
fit. Look on pp. 46-47 of Warhammer Armies:
Ogre Kingdoms for ideas, paint schemes, and
quick ways to paint rusting battle gear. |
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Step
13 |
I
mixed up some light brown flocks and Static
Grass that I had bought from a craft shop in
a cup or shaker. Apply PVA woodworking glue
in small, sparse patches around the boulders.
Sprinkle the static grass mixture over the
glue and allow it to dry. Once the glue and
grass have bonded, shake the excess free onto
a piece of folded paper and pour the excess
into the cup or shaker.
Use some Tall Grass, which
you can also get from craft shops, to add tall,
dry grasses to the base. Cut down the Tall
Grass to a suitable height and dip the grass'
into a small puddle of white glue. Place the
bottom of the grasses onto the base and hold
the grass upright with tweezers until it starts
to dry in place. |
Step
14 |
Mix plaster with
water to get a very thick mixture of almost-unpourable "snow".
I used some modelling plaster (again, check
your local craft shop). Work quickly (good
plaster tends to harden very fast; you've got
a working time of about 5-8 minutes) with a
small palette knife or small piece of plasticard
and pile and push the plaster in the recesses
and shadows of the boulders. Avoid touching
the plaster for at least 20 minutes or so.
Thick areas will need as long as 40 minutes
to dry.
You can make trampled snow
by lightly pressing the round edge of the sculpting
tool into the plaster before it's entirely
dry.
See Step 8 of the Snowy
Cliff Face project for details. |
Step
15 |
Add
extra details like lichen. A little bit of
this detailing goes a long way, and it's not
that hard. Dampen a cotton bud with water and
dab at the rock. Use the reverse (dry) side
of the cotton bud and gently rub away the pigment
on the boulder.
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Next: Gorger Pit.
Previous: Boulders.
