OPTION 3: "HYPER-REALISM" HIGHLIGHTING

Not really highlighting in the traditional sense where you mimic reflected light, this technique actually reflects the light. The technique, which I call "hyper-realism," is by far the furthest from the 'Eavy Metal method. However, many military modellers use this sort of approach when they paint their amazingly realistic armour dioramas. While it may not win you any Golden Demon awards (or who knows, it might!), it will chop a little time off painting your black-armoured Space Marines.

Note that while using hyper-realism, you should probably paint fabric, badges, seals, other folded textures, and Chapter iconography with the methods described earlier in this article (see the Halo of Light for more information). Shiny tabards just don't make sense, do they?

Read on to find out how to achieve a suit of well-polished and cared for Black Templar power armour in two easy steps. After that, read up on how to add chipped armour and mud spatter effects to bring even more realism to your armour plates.

PAINTING A BLACK TEMPLAR WITH THE "HYPER-REALISM" HIGHLIGHTING TECHNIQUE

1	Undercoat the model with Chaos Black (or use Chaos Black spray undercoat to achieve a thorough undercoat). Paint a 1:1 mix of Chaos Black and water over the entire model to cover any spray undercoat (see Chaos Black undercoat mentioned before). Mix: 1:1 / CG:H20
2	Paint every ceramite plate with Gloss Varnish. This step creates a sheen on the armour that catches any available light and provides instant highlighting — no real work required! For a less-noticeable sheen, cut the Gloss Varnish with water. To build up a gloss like polished, lacquered armour dutifully cared for by its occupant (so that the armour's spirit would not fail him in battle), apply a second coat of Gloss Varnish. Mix: 1:1:4 / GV:GM:H20

The gloss can be increased or decreased depending on what sort of feeling you want to evoke for the model, or what type of environment the Space Marine might have seen in combat. As a matter of reverence for the armour, Black Templars keep their armour in the best working condition. However, dust would accumulate around feet and legs the second a Black Templar deploys.

To flip this concept on its head, consider that a Black Templar fighting vehicle might not have any gloss at all after the wear and tear and weathering that the vehicle accrues after fighting a long Crusade. A very simple and exceedingly light drybrushing on the edges of the hull might suffice in this case. The real fun in painting a Black Templar tank (just like a suit of power armour) comes in its weathering.

ADDING WEATHERING

You could call it quits with the two steps described above, or you can pull out all the stops and push your black-armoured Space Marine that extra step further. Rubbed and chipped paint adds a whole new level of detail, while dust and grime give your model a sense of realism — it fits in a gritty far-future. When you think about it, a Space Marine's power armour is basically a tank made for one. Why not treat its surface just as you would a vehicle, except on a smaller scale? Below are some steps you can try to add realism to your black power armour.

1	Paint the damaged areas of the armour with Mithril Silver. Mix: 1:4 / MS:H20

Damage and chipping will most likely occur around the feet and legs (from movement in difficult terrain), on one of the knee pads (from taking a knee to shoot), and on the edges of plates (due to wear and tear). Also consider impact damage from projectiles and claws. Keep one thing in mind, though: less is sometimes more.

FRESH MUD

1	Dab and stipple the feet and lower legs with Scorched Brown. Allow a bit of the bare metal to shine through, but go ahead and make a real mess of his greaves. Mix: 4:12:4 / SB:GM:H20
2	Stipple a mix of Scorched Brown and Vermin Brown over the Scorched Brown, keeping most of this mix near the highest points of the mud splatter. Mix: 2:2:12:4 / SB:VB:GM:H20

As you can probably see from the two-step example above, adding fresh, wet mud is a fairly easy and straight forward process. This technique can be used easily on armoured vehicles as well. Just remember to finish your model's base so that it matches the weathering on you Space Marine. If you want to go even further, follow the steps below to get an interesting texture that resembles dried mud.

DRIED MUD

1	Dab and stipple the feet and lower legs with Scorched Brown. Allow a bit of the bare metal to shine through, but go ahead and make a real mess of his greaves. Mix: 4:4:4 / SB:GM:H20
2	Stipple a mix of Scorched Brown and Vermin Brown over the Scorched Brown, keeping most of the paint near the highest points of the mud splatter. Mix: 2:2:4:4 / SB:VB:GM:H20
3	Stipple/drybrush Graveyard Earth (with a Large Drybrush) over the Vermin/Scorched Brown mix, again concentrating at the top of the mud splatter. The brush should be almost wiped clean pre use. Mix: 1 / GE

Now that you've mastered a few simple weathering techniques, try them out on other surfaces and with other colours. The best way to discover new ways of painting your models is to try out a technique on a spare miniature you have lying around. Look at real photographs of textures, terrain, troops, and real-life armoured fighting vehicles. Take photos of earthmovers, bulldozers, and other construction equipment for reference. Also, never pass up an opportunity to talk to fellow modellers. You never know what you will discover, so keep your options open.

Next: Option 4 - Toned Black
Previous: Option 2 - "Painterly" Highlighting