UNDERCOAT AND BASE. For the Shade's undercoat, use Skull White Spray Paint. You want to use white so the basecoat of Regal Blue will appear a bit more vibrant than it would over Chaos Black . With the undercoat out of the way, it's not a bad idea to finish the model's base at this point. The base is really up to you, but personally, I'd prefer to get it out of the way now. Correcting any stray paint on the base once the model is finished is a lot easier than fixing a mistake made on the model itself by careless basing. Especially when you're dealing with blending.

HIGHLIGHT BASECOAT. Get things started by painting the majority of the Shade with a coat of Dark Angels Green. There's no need to get paint into every nook and cranny. Instead, leave the deepest recesses of the model Chaos Black. Be sure to thin down your paint a bit with water while applying this green to achieve some early blending. Apply the paint repeatedly to raised areas and fold highlights for maximum Dark Angels Green coverage. Set the model aside and let it dry completely before moving onwards.

FIRST HIGHLIGHT BUILD. This early highlight step is a bit tedious, but probably the most important. Upon this foundation, you will later build up three highlight layers that'll bring your model to life. Mix up a pool of the following on your palette: 1 part Dark Angels Green and 1 part Snot Green. Thin down this mix and apply it over the majority of the Shade's folds and weaving lines. However, leave the recesses Dark Angels Green and the very deepest spots Chaos Black. The first couple brush strokes are going to be the most difficult as you get a feel for what should and should not be coated with your paint mix. Once you get moving, you'll find a rhythm and be through with this step after a bit of perseverance.

SECOND HIGHLIGHT BUILD. Now we start getting to the good stuff. These next few steps are where the Shade begins to come alive as the colours build upon one another. Get out your Snot Green and thin it down with water on your palette. You really want the paint to flow smoothly onto the model for the rest of this project. Carefully apply Snot Green over the areas of the Shade you previously painted in Step 3. Do not completely cover the these areas, of course, but get nearly so.

THIRD HIGHLIGHT BUILD. Things are starting to move as the highlight steps get quicker and quicker. Mix up a pool of the following on your palette: 1 part Snot Green and 1 part Fortress Grey. Much like the last step, carefully apply the mix (thinned with water, of course) over the previous layer of paint, but not so completely this time around. Instead, pay attention to the raised areas of folds and focal points on the Shade like eyebrows, crowns, fingertips, and cheekbones.

FINAL HIGHLIGHTS. Nearly there! Now you'll apply final highlights to the Shade with purpose on select portions of the model using pure Fortress Grey. Once more, paint the focal points of the Shade. Items like the folds of cloth, eyebrows, crowns, fingertips, and cheekbones should be paid special attention. Once you've gone over the model's highlights with the mix, go back over a few very select areas of the model (only the most prominent highlight areas) with a few strokes of 1 part Skull White and 1 part Fortress Grey.