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How Not To Be Seen
THREE CREATIVE WAYS TO DISPLAY YOUR LICTOR MODEL

Page: 1|2|3|4|5|6

TIM HUCKELBERY'S CAMOUFLAGED LICTOR

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Tim decided his Lictor's camouflage would not cover 100% of the creature. He figured that hooves, claws, and bone spikes would not have chameleon scales on them and therefore would not colour-shift. While the majority of the model would adopt the main coloration of the surrounding terrain, the parts of the creature too far from the terrain would retain their original colour (a purple/blue scheme in this case). With these ideas in mind, Tim decided on a jungle setting for his Lictor. He used the new Games Workshop Jungle Plant Pack to decorate the base after painting the model, though he used the plants for reference as he painted. Tim only converted the model slightly by cutting down the leg attachments so he could angle them farther back to tilt the torso down for a more leaning-over-the-unaware-victim look.

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Tim painted the Lictor's body with Snot Green and then hit it with a Dark Green Ink wash. He highlighted the flesh areas with Goblin Green and then Sunburst Yellow. Tim highlighted the armour plates with Skull White to differentiate them slightly from the fleshy areas.

For the leafy camouflage areas, Tim used Dark Angels Green, then Goblin Green, and highlighted with Skull White mixed with Camo Green. His goal was to mimic the jungle plants in both shape and coloration, so Tim added lighter colours to the leaf markings as he moved up on the model.

Tim painted the tail section with Warlock Purple and a Magenta Ink wash. Lastly, he painted the armoured plates with Regal Blue and highlighted them up to Ice Blue.

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Tim painted the rocks (and rock markings on the Lictor) with Terracotta followed by a Chestnut Ink wash and a highlight with a mix of Terracotta and Skull White. Bone areas were painted with a Bleached Bone basecoat, with Scorched Brown at the base and Skull White on the tips. Also, Tim applied a Flesh Wash glaze to give the bone an older, yellowed appearance.

Final touches – Tim made a bit of slimy drool from fishing line glued into the corner of the mouth, which he thickened with small blobs of superglue. Once dry, he applied Yellow Ink to the drool and washed the feeder tendrils liberally with 'Ardcoat gloss varnish. This method is a very easy way to achieve a cool dripping-slime look for any model.

Next: Conclusion
Previous: Dave's Lictor

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