Step Seven - Click to enlarge.
 

Step Eight - Click to enlarge.
 

Step Nine - Click to enlarge.
 

Step 7

There are several building materials you can use for doorways, but the ones we thought would work best are gutter C-clamps like those shown above. They look like cross-sections of doorways, have a built-in "door control" recess, and won't block model movement.

Step 8

To give this corridor section a nicely infested look, we decided that we were going to cover the walls with an icky Tyranid organic blanket. Pretty much every Tyranid in the range has some bio-mechanical ribbing on it, and we wanted to incorporate that look here. If you just want a regular corridor, skip our Tyranid infestation steps. If not, find some 1/2"-diameter electrical cord tubing like that shown above. Cut off about a 5" length of this tubing and cut this section in half lengthwise to get two hemispherical 5" sections.

Step 9

Time to start bringing all this stuff together. Glue the doorways on the edges of the corridor floor with superglue. Depending on how far back you cut the overhang, you'll have to push the doorways in and force the gutter to accommodate them - it will bend into shape. If that's the case, add some glue to where the door and the gutter meet. Once the doorways dry, trim down your lighting grid section to fit between the doorways. Glue the grid down with superglue - if your gutter has a slight bend to it, you can use the grid to correct for this by applying weight to it while it dries (you'll need at least 10 lbs.). Next, glue in the tubing halves to the back wall of the corridor with superglue.

Step Ten - Click to enlarge.
 

Step Eleven - Click to enlarge.
 

Step Twelve - Click to enlarge.
 

Step 10

Find some 2" wall vents like those above. The ones we found had a slightly rough texture to the plastic, which will be ideal for drybrushing later.

Step 11

The vents are probably going to be too deep, so you'll need to cut down the back ring so it's only 1/4" deep. Use your cutting tool to cut off this ring like shown above.

Step 12

Glue one of the trimmed-down vents to the centre of the back wall with superglue.

Step Thirteen - Click to enlarge.
 

Step Fourteen - Click to enlarge.
 

Step Fifteen - Click to enlarge.
 

Step 13

Time to bulk out the Tyranid infestation with an epoxy putty, such as Green Stuff. Use your imagination and go for the corrupted organic look – just make sure you incorporate the tubing you glued in before.

Step 14

Do this step before the putty dries. Don't glue it down just yet, but lay down the crochet grid to make sure your putty work won't block it. You can make a few infestation tendrils stop right at the edge of the grid. This way, after you paint everything and glue the grid down, you can extend the tendrils over the grid with Green Stuff and paint them to give the scenery more depth and enhance the "eww" effect.

Step 15

You're almost done. Get some plasticard 2-mm square rod and cut it into three sections. Two should be about 1" in length – place these on the floor of each doorway to support the crochet grid that overlaps the doorways. The other will serve as the handrail. Measure it out, cut it down, and glue it between the doorways with superglue. Make the door controls from thin plasticard and place them in the doorway slots provided. Cut several lengths of plasticard pipes of varying diameter to serve as hulk plumbing and glue them to the deck and over the doorways to cover the overhang cut. Add a couple of metal bitz from the Dwarf Flame Cannon and Bolt Thrower in the Warhammer range (file off any Dwarf icons, of course) to get the plumbing valves and the like. Ta-da: space hulk corridor ready for paint!

Again, don't glue down the crochet grid just yet - you'll have a much easier time painting without it in place.